This is a sponsored column by Cindy Beyer, a Reston-based interior designer and Reston Now Best Reston Business Award winner. Find her online at www.CindyLBeyer.com.

I have heard many people say “I HATE my kitchen!”

How many of you have looked at your kitchen and said the same thing? There are multiple options to consider before committing to a total kitchen replacement.

The first option and lowest cost is to repaint or re-stain the existing cabinets and swap out the hardware with new updated pulls, hinges and knobs. There are several do-it-yourself videos online that can help you with this process. Any good painter can also handle the job for you.

The second option is to reface the cabinet fronts and doors with updated styles. Your doors should be a standard size that any re-facing shop can handle. The frames are kept intact and can be refaced with a wood veneer or painted.  Swap out the old hardware with new styles. This is a viable option for a fraction of the cost of replacing. If your floor plan still works for you, I would suggest this route with new appliances, countertops and a fun tile backsplash.

The third option is a total kitchen remodel.

When considering a kitchen plan, it is wise to consult with a designer. You will be surprised at how a kitchen project can impact other rooms of the house, so it would be a good idea to use a professional designer with skills beyond just kitchens and cabinets. I use a software program that is aligned to my cabinet shop sources. Once finished, I have a complete list of all pieces needed as well as perspective drawings and floor plans to show my client.

Designing the perfect kitchen takes time and knowledge. I work with industry guidelines including The  National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA).  The following are a few important items I like to stress to my clients:

• Workspace triangles ( the path from your sink to refrigerator to stove top) must not exceed 9 feet for any single leg and not exceed 26 feet total.
• Traffic patterns should not interfere with the workspace.
• Clearance from the front of the counter to the front of the back counter should be at least 42 inches if one person using the space and 48 inches if multiple people will be using the space.
• Cabinet doors, as well as functional doors, should not interfere with the operation of appliances. I can’t tell you how often I see an oven door or dishwasher door not able to open fully. This is often the case in tight spaces where the builder just threw together a plan. That is one of my biggest pet peeves.

Once the plan is finalized, the fun really begins!  There are hundreds of cabinet styles and finishes to consider. I don’t recommend more than two cabinet finishes in the room. Center islands are a good place to change the cabinet finish and work surface material.

Picking a material for your countertop can also be exhausting. There are many surfaces to choose from such as: quartz, stainless steel, butcher block, marble, concrete, granite and pressed glass, to name a few. Some surfaces will need to be sealed and maintained, so keep this in mind while making your choices.

The backsplash material is also an area that can make a big kitchen statement. Keep in mind that the more intricate the design, the more costly it will be — so also be smart when choosing your backsplash material.

The same goes for hardware. If your current appliances are older than 10 years, then it is a good idea to replace them with new up to date technology.

Have fun — and happy cooking!  If you would like help with your new kitchen, feel free to email me at [email protected].

This is a sponsored column by Cindy Beyer, a Reston-based interior designer and Reston Now Best Reston Business Award winner. Find her online at www.CindyLBeyer.com.

Pillows are the ultimate accessory. If your room is looking tired and you are contemplating a complete redo that would mean tossing out the furniture, don’t rush into anything. There are many ways you can refresh your space for a fraction of the cost. Pillows, throws, candles and new accessories are the easiest way to get more bang for the buck.

Let’s concentrate just on pillows. There are countless types of designs and price points.  The least expensive are the ones you can find at the discount stores such as Home Goods, Marshalls, Tuesday Morning and Pier One Imports.  I usually start searching these outlet-type stores if we are under tight budget constraints. The only point to remember is that you have to visit those stores often, because the stock is always being replenished. You will need to have patience and time on your hands.

If you are not successful with the discount stores, try the Internet or stores such as Pottery Barn and Frontgate. I have had success at both sources.

Keep in mind that most good pillows will have a zipper so you can change out the case and keep the forms or inserts. There are many types of forms ranging from 100-percent down to 50-50 blend to fiber.Down fillings tend to be squishy, so if that is not the look you want, I suggest a blend.

Once you have the inserts, you can change the case out seasonally. This is also a good way to pull your room together. For one Christmas, I gave my son and his wife a nice pillow with a “Woodie” station wagon embroidered on the front. Hey, it’s better that the socks I got for Christmas from my Mother.

Now to the good stuff….custom-made pillows. What can I say about a perfect pillow? When working with clients, I like to round out the design and pull it together with a few pillows made in the drapery fabric or the main fabric in the room. These are usually larger sizes with smaller accent pillows made in coordinating fabrics. These can be any shape and size from a kidney pillow to a 36-inch boxed floor pillow.

Most workrooms will  custom size your forms to any pillow you want, but I keep to a few standard sizes like 12″ x 18″ kidney, 18″ square, 20-22″ square. Rounds and bolsters can be any size. I even made a bolster to look like saltwater taffy.

You can use the same fabric and change out the shape and edging detail by using a contrast welt, fringe, tassel fringe or beaded fringe. Be aware of the type of fringe you choose as not all trims are child friendly. Try not to choose one that is looped on your pillows, especially if you sit little Johnny down to watch “Dora The Explorer,” only to find out that he has pulled all the loops out of the fringe.

Keep in mind that custom pillows can be expensive, but can provide a great finished look. My advice is to use custom pillows sparingly. Try intermixing them with the more cost effective ones you find on your searches.  You will be surprised at how the room will POP!

If you need any pillow help or advice, please feel free to contact me at cindylbeyerdesign.com.

This is a sponsored column by Cindy Beyer, a Reston-based interior designer and Reston Now Best Reston Business Award winner. Find her online at www.CindyLBeyer.com.

Hello, design friends. My name is Cindy Beyer, and I will be chatting with you for the next few months. I will gladly research any topic you wish. Today’s topic is choosing paint colors.

How many of you have painted a wall or even the entire room only to find that when it is finished it is not even close to the color you imagined? This happens more times than you can imagine, so don’t be so hard on yourself. If you have a happy husband or a friendly painter this would not be devastating. However, if you are paying a painter by the hour or job, you just might want to spend a little time before you apply the paint. Here are a few tips I use when choosing paint colors for my clients:

First, I meet with the client to review color choices from a fan deck or color card. These can be obtained from your local paint store. Each color card has several intensities, and I like to give the client the option of choosing a lighter intensity for the ceilings, and a darker intensity for the walls and accent walls.

Don’t be afraid to apply color to the ceiling.  Ceilings are just as important as walls and can drastically change the look of the room. Once chosen, I purchase a small quart or sample jar of the color to be painted on a large piece of poster board. This way we can move the sample from room to room to really get a feel of how the color will look on the wall. I suggest taping the samples up with blue painter’s tape. It is amazing how different a color looks next to a window, and at different times of the day. Keeping the sample up on the wall for a few days is really worth the wait. Sit and enjoy your paint sample in the evening while sipping a glass of Chardonnay.

Once the color is chosen, I have the painter drag a few feet of paint on the wall to really get a feel for the color. If the color is acceptable, then it is safe to continue with the entire room. You must also keep in mind which finish is right for the application. Paint finishes include: flat/matte, eggshell, semi-gloss and gloss.

For most applications, I use a flat or matte finish, which shows the least amount of imperfections such as nail pops or bad drywall seams. Eggshell is a good finish to use in high traffic areas, bathrooms, kitchens and children’s rooms. Semi-gloss stands up to water and is good for doors and trims. The gloss finish is hard and shiny and is also used for doors and trims as well as furniture. When you are experimenting with your color boards if possible choose the correct finish to really gauge how your color will look on the wall. Have fun with it. Remember that it is only paint.

If you need help with your color choices, send me a note on my website.